Custom development
Bring us a swatch, a photograph, a tech pack or a paragraph describing what you want. We will tell you what it is, what it costs, and how fast it can exist.
Start a developmentYou lead, we build
Any starting point
A physical swatch, a photo of a garment you like, a Pantone code, or just 'like this but heavier'. All four work.
Analysis before price
We break your reference down to yarn count, construction, dye method and finish — then quote against it, line by line.
Sample before bulk
Nothing goes to bulk until you have held a strike-off or a PP sample and approved it in writing.
Yours to keep
Developments made for you are held for you. We do not sell your construction to another brand.
The development path
You send the reference, target quantity, target price and deadline.
Yarn, construction, dye, finish, MOQ and lead time — quoted in two working days.
3–5 metres woven in your construction. 7–12 days, sample cost credited to bulk.
Wash and finish developed to your hand feel. 7–10 days per round.
Inline QC, shade bands approved, wash consistency checked against the approved sample.
Rolled on tubes or packed as garments, with full customs documentation.
What you can specify
- 6–8 oz (shirting)
- 9–11 oz (all-season)
- 12–13 oz (classic)
- 14–15 oz (heavy)
- 16 oz+ (heritage)
- 3×1 right-hand twill
- 2×1 twill
- Broken twill
- Slub / irregular
- Plain & canvas
- Jacquard / dobby
- Knit denim
- Rope-dyed indigo
- Slasher-dyed indigo
- Foam / low-water indigo
- Sulfur black
- Reactive colour (Pantone)
- Overdye & garment dye
- Rigid (0%)
- Comfort (1–2%)
- Stretch (3–5%)
- Power stretch (6%+)
- Raw / unwashed
- Rinse & one wash
- Enzyme wash
- Stone wash
- Bleach & acid wash
- Whiskering & 3D creases
- Laser-ready finishing
- Coating & wax
- Sanforised pre-shrunk
- 82 cm selvedge
- 140 cm
- 148–150 cm
- 155 cm+
- Custom
Most mills treat their standards as a trade secret. We would rather you knew exactly what you are buying before you buy it.
Minimums by process
Per colourway. Mixed colourways can share a bulk run — ask us to combine them.
| Process | Minimum | Lead time |
|---|---|---|
| Grey / undyed denim from stock yarn | 200 m | 15–20 days |
| Stock denim, custom colour | 300 m | 20–26 days |
| Custom weight & construction | 500 m | 25–32 days |
| Jacquard / dobby motif | 500 m | 30–38 days |
| Wash development & PP sample | 1 round | 7–10 days |
| Cut-make-trim jeans (OEM) | 80 pcs / style | 25–35 days |
Questions we get asked
How small can a first order be?+
300 metres for a custom colour, 200 metres from stock yarn, 80 pieces per jean style. We will say no honestly if your brief cannot be made at that size.
Do you charge for samples?+
Strike-offs are charged at the sample price per metre plus a development fee. Both are credited against your first bulk order over 500 metres.
Can you copy a fabric I send you?+
Usually yes. We analyse construction, yarn count and finish, then match it. If a detail is proprietary to someone else, we will tell you and propose an alternative.
How long does development take?+
Quote in two working days, strike-off in 7–12 days, wash rounds 7–10 days each, bulk 25–38 days depending on construction.
Will you sell my development to someone else?+
No. Customs constructions and washes developed for you are held for your brand only, for as long as you keep ordering.
What if the bulk does not match the sample?+
You approve a signed-off reference before bulk. If the bulk falls outside the agreed shade band or weight tolerance, we re-make it at our cost.
Send us the reference
One message is enough to start. We reply within one working day.
Start a development